Friends Form Food Revolution on Lanexa Farm

By Amber Lester Tuesday, April 06, 2010

Shane Emmett was having little success keeping basil plants alive when he picked up a copy of Michael Pollan’s best seller, “The Omnivore’s Dilemma.”

In the book, the author describes how society has obtained food and suggests that the best food one could eat is grown locally, sustainably and with no artificial additives. Pollan has become famous for his mantra: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.”

Emmett was one of millions shaken by Pollan’s book. He wanted to succeed at growing basil. In fact, he wanted to succeed at growing every herb and vegetable he could. And he had a feeling he wasn’t alone. With his childhood friend, Ivan Fehrenbach, he decided to start a food revolution.

Williamsburg natives Emmett and Fehrenbach are partners in United States of Food, a new business focused on helping people grow food at home. Based on a 17-acre farm in Lanexa, United States of Food will sell raised beds, seeds, fruit trees, trellises, grape vines and chickens. Emmett says it’s “tragic” so many people don’t know the tastes of fresh-from-the-garden heirloom tomatoes or string beans.

“A lot of people don’t understand about where food comes from,” he says. “I think people are really starting to think about it. I think people want to know.”

Fehrenbach, who also works as a literary translator, purchased the Lanexa property seven years ago and cleared it himself, then built a small home, chicken coop, greenhouse, storage building, pond and more. He and Emmett, who most recently worked as a legal consultant for Governor Tim Kaine, met in pre-school.

The two recruited another friend, Sean Charles, to serve as horticulturalist for the venture. He is spending his days tending to sprouts of collard greens, kale, several varieties of lettuce, peppers, eggplants and more in a makeshift greenhouse.

The group expects to start filling orders for raised beds in three weeks. United States of Food will offer seven varieties of raised beds, ranging in price from $195 to $1,495. The beds are constructed by Fehrenbach from standard pine or cedar wood, with optional copper accents. Each bed has a solid bottom to keep out pests, and an irrigation system set to a timer, allowing novice gardeners to leave town without worrying about watering the garden. The business will also sell deer netting to protect the gardens.

Raised beds are easier to maintain and promote good growth through better aeration and water penetration, Charles says. Raised beds are also a viable option for apartment or condo dwellers with little to no potential space to garden. Virginia customers will have their raised beds delivered and set up by the company; out-of-state customers can order shippable kits.

The raised beds are not cheap, but Emmett says customers will see returns on their investments many times over. On the Web site, the company estimates an eight-square-foot raised bed costing $195 should yield $714 worth of food in two years. In addition, he says the craftsmanship of the raised bed is comparable to buying furniture for one’s yard. “How much do people spend on Adirondack chairs? And those don’t feed you,” he says.

In addition to raised beds, United States of Food will sell chickens for customers who would like fresh eggs from their own backyard. Fehrenbach would like to eventually build chicken coops to sell. During a tour of the farm, he showed off his menagerie, which includes turkeys, quail, peacocks, chickens and goats. He doesn’t plan to eat them; he calls them “friends.”

The revolution doesn’t begin and end at the farm, however. The business owners hope to help restaurants, neighborhoods, co-ops, corporations, schools and anyone else build gardens wherever they can, be it on rooftops or in fields. “We want to help people and facilitate better eating,” Emmett says.